Monthly Archives: October 2010

Zen and the Art of Duck Ham Bennies

A student approaches his master and says, `Master, I have done it!  I have followed your example.  I have settled deeper and deeper into a meditative state until finding transcendence.’

The master replies, `Oh that?  Don’t worry.  It’ll pass.’

This story went through my mind this morning as I approached the final bite of my duck ham bennies.

It’s probably not a good idea to play around with eggs benedict.  It’s a Sunday Brunch classic for a reason: churchgoing has got nothing on it.

But alas, if you noticed in my entry on imperfect chocolate mousse, one of the threads I like pursuing in the kitchen, and indeed life, is transcendent failings: stumbling around in full acknowledgement of our shortcomings, and yet, aspiring for something with a tiny taste of divine.

Hence, imperfect chocolate mousse… And this morning, taking a risk with eggs benedict, what Adam and Eve surely must have eaten for breakfast every morning before smartenin’ up on that apple.

Indeed, these duck ham bennies started a week ago.  In truth, I hadn’t set out to make them.   As all good cooking stories go, this one starts with a big mistake: I fell for a special offer by my online grocer for a whole duck.

Before double clicking, I hadn’t thought too much about how my wife doesn’t eat meat if it’s red, my 5 year old daughter thinks eating duck is crueler than killing Santa Claus, and my 3 month old son has no teeth.

It’s just me and a whole duck.  Fortunately for me, when the duck arrived at the door, so did the cold weather.

It occurred to me that it might be a good moment to make duck ham.  (Here’s how: pack the duck breasts in salt for 24 hours, rinse thorougly in water, and then wrap in cheese cloth and hang in a cool, humid place for a week (50-60 degrees F).)

I tried to convince the family to turn the heat off for a week, but no can do.  So, the duck ham project was sent to the shed to hang from a hook next to my bicycles.

I have fond memories of packing meat in salt.  One of my first realisations that I was in the sh£t, as it were, at Le Jabadao, was a moment early in the apprenticeship, when Emmanuel, the chef, baked a large sea bass in a giant sleeping bag of salt.

The theory behind this practice is that the flesh of the fish will be tender and taste most like the sea, as its juices are sealed in tight by a salt crust.  But I actually think this is quite overstated (sorry River Cottage).

The better reason for salting fish is simpler: a lot of salt is fun to touch and very pleasurable to look at.  It’s also fun to conceal things like fish in salt.  It’s also a lot of fun to crack the salt encasing after it’s hardened from the baking.

And then of course, there is the gradual build up of anticipation that comes with not knowing what will be inside when the salt crust is peeled away in chunks.

Baked fish?  A shiny pearl?  Who knows?

After 24 hours packed in salt, the duck breast was still duck breast, but smaller in size, an even deeper maroon, and a bit more stiff.

After a week hanging in cheese cloth in my garage, I could hardly sleep not knowing what the next day might bring.   So like a 34 year old boy on Christmas morning, I ran out into my garage in my skivvies whilst still dark to fetch my hanging duck breasts.

I peeled off the cheese cloth and alas!  They had handlebars, cranks, pedals, wheels, and a chain!  Okay… Not that exciting: sliced, they look like proscuitto.

So, I didn’t know what to do with them this morning until my daughter asked for scones for breakfast.  With this provocation, beaty was born.

Here’s how I made the duck ham bennies:

First, I made red currant scones for my daughter.  Here is a reliable recipe.  Just add red currants.

Then, I thinly sliced the duck ham on the bias.  This requires using a very sharp knife.

I seared some of the duck ham in a touch of hot olive oil in a saucepan in order to get some crispy bits.  I also left some as is for some not so crispy bits.  In addition to contrasting textures, the color contrast is nice too.

I put the crispy duck ham on top of a sliced and buttered red currant scone.  Then, I put the `raw’ duck ham on top of the black peppered poached eggs.

Finally, I topped it all with some apple mint chutney that was recently given to us as a gift.   The bright sweet/savoury chutney cut through the richness of the dish, rather than burying/smothering/bothering it in hollandaise sauce.

While eating this dish, I forgot I was alive.   Once I remembered, I felt thankful.

Flounder’s Syndrome

… Leadership in  Liberal Democracy, part 2

This entry is a second reflection on the notion of leadership in a liberal democracy. In the last post, I wrote about how Labaree describes the immanent tensions in a liberal democracy, whereby efforts to allow for the expression of personal liberties and the promotion of the common good conflict. I related Labaree’s idea to the irresolvability of being a pedagogue, floundering about in muddiness. This, I think, is essential to teaching and leading, or indeed citizenship, but perhaps not so great for trying to make money. In this post, I want to write about how floundering is an important part of public leadership in light of the so-called `Founder’s Syndrome’ in the non-profit sector.

In the last post , I described how Labaree’s description of leadership mucking about in muddiness is radically different from the narrow-minded CEO ethos that seems to permeate so-called education reform today. On a side note, I recently read a job description seeking a head (US: principal) for a school who has a `relentless focus on outcomes.’ I’m sorry folks, focus ain’t enough anymore. It’s got to be relentless. I recommend this reform agenda starts to make one-word motivational posters for their CEO’s offices.

Above `RELENTLESS’, you might have imagery of desert heat or the clinched jaws of a pit bull.

Of course, nowhere in the job description does it mention the head’s duty to care about teachers’ learning, to foster an environment where teachers flounder a bit in the irresolvability of being a pedagogue. Perhaps just maybe students might then also wrestle with the complexity of being a citizen, a brother, a sister, a labourer, a poet.

But there is no place for weakness in a society fearful of decline. We’ve had enough failure. And of course, it’s women’s fault. The vulnerability of the femaled progressive educator must be squashed. Bring in the boys (and girls), rolling into a community near you, sittin’ on the hoods of bulldozers and tanks, shrink-wrapped in Facebook advertisements….

Whew… Okay, enough ranting, I’m off topic… Back to F(l)ounder’s Syndrome.

When I started New Urban Arts, I quickly learned about the founder’s syndrome and felt haunted by it. The syndrome describes founder’s tendency to stay too long at their organisations, outweighing their usefulness. The assumption is that while founder’s may have charisma, vision, and good looks needed to start organisations, they usually don’t have the other capacities needed to build and sustain them.

This is of course simplistic. There are enough counter-examples to show that this isn’t always the case. But, there are enough examples to show that this description does hold water.

I was always afraid I was going to be the last one to find out that I had over-stayed my welcome. I imagined no one would want to be the person to tell me. To avoid that scenario, everybody was going to have to sit me down at the same time and do some intervention. I’d be sitting in my office and all of a sudden I would start hearing ferocious creaking from the gallery, i.e. all the chairs being lifted out of New Urban Arts’ homemade chair truck to make some scary circle of doom.

Of course, I never knew when that moment might come. I also knew that if I felt it was imminent, then it was too late. I needed to be ahead of doom.

So, how did I know I wasn’t there yet but might be soon?

Well, I started to feel too comfortable in my job. I didn’t feel like I was floundering as much. I felt too certain. I felt like I was providing staff and artist mentors more answers than questions. My idealistic look forward toward describing an unknown future was giving way to a more cynical look backward, rooted in the certainty of an authoritative past.

I was thinking about this last week as Jason shared with me some reflections of the Institute of Other Significant Pursuits, indeed one of the most exciting developments in New Urban Arts’ short history. The purpose of the Institute is to provide a touchpoint for alumni, a moment where they might return to the studio to wrestle around with the irresolvability of being an artist, educator, community-problem solver, parent, etc. It’s a moment to do this together as a way of catalyzing whatever the next giant leap in their development might be.

The Institute serves as a metaphor, I think, more broadly for New Urban Arts. As much as New Urban Arts thinks about what happens in the studio each day, week, month and year, it is really a story of beginnings. It’s a place where all of us attempt to find our flying feathers before we let ‘em rip.

This was one of the tensions of being the organisation’s founder, in light of fears about the syndrome. While almost all the students, artist mentors and staff flew the coop, I stayed. The irony for me was that I couldn’t understand New Urban Arts until I left. And no one else could experience the priviliged irresolvability of that position until I was gone.

This strikes me as what is so powerful and important about the Institute. I think it also relates to the reflections on New Urban Arts that I am considering in this blog. These are the stories of continuing to navigate these impossibilities in light of what we learned at New Urban Arts, in light of New Urban Arts continuing to provide generative interventions in how we navigate these impossibilities.

What else could a school hope for?